Finding the Balance: fly line, leader and tippet

Every wonder why that rod just isn't carrying that fly out as far as you'd like it to, or why your leader or tippet are not getting more distance between the fly line and your fly, or why your tippet is curling up or getting loops in it?  These problems can create ugly issues with your presentation to the fish, but can be solved.  

It is important to note to any new fly fisherman/women out there that the leader is generally not just a straight "fishing line" tied to the end of your brightly colored fly line.  

Solution:  Make sure you have a tapered leader.  A tapered leader, whether welded/continuous or tied by hand will fare much better.  This is due to the gradual change in weight distribution across the line as you cast, transferring the loop smoothly all the way from the fly line at the tip of your rod to the fly at the end of your leader.  You can get a good tapered leader in most fly shops and certainly on amazon or online.  Also, be sure you purchase a leader that is the appropriate size for the type of fly you are fishing and the size rod you are using.  For instance, don't go on trying to cast a mouse pattern on a three weight rod using 7x tippet.  

Generally, if you are fishing a 5wt rod or something of in that range, use the "clinch knot" to tie a tapered leader onto the end of your fly line.  Then if you need anything more than that, use the "double surgeon's knot" to tie on another foot and one half or so of 4X or 5X tippet.  If you are going for trout, use a smaller tippet (or very fine-ended tapered leader).  If you are fishing for bass, go with something a little thicker, probably at least size 4X (and be ready to let him run!).

Also keep in mind that fly or hook size is an important factor here as well, but I will save that for another day.  Refine your skills and master the balance, tailoring everything to the fish species and the presentation you are seeking, and you'll catch more fish.     

Tight lines,

Daniel

Rod Sizes Rundown

Good afternoon!

When I began fly fishing, one of the most confusing things to me was the jargon associated with the sport.  Many novice and even intermediate fly anglers are not familiar with the various sizes and uses of rods, line, leader, tippet, hooks, etc.  This may seem like a rather dry subject, but the knowledge pays off when you know what kind of equipment to use, which should be tailored to the fish species you are seeking and the environment you will be fishing in.  For instance, if you are fishing a small creek with low-hanging trees, choose a shorter rod of lower weight size.  If you are fishing a large river like the Madison (in most spots) you might want to stick with at least a 5 wt.    

To begin, the jist of rod sizes is that they run from a 0 weight (often abbreviated as "wt") all the way up to a 12 weight and beyond.  The largest sizes are usually for saltwater species (EVEN MARLIN!).  The general rule is that, the bigger the fish, the higher the rod wt.  However, this is not always the case.  Often larger brown trout (a particularly finicky and sought-after species) may be caught on a rod size of about 3-5, but could weigh 15+ lbs.  This goes for trout in general, as they are the best at spotting a thick, glossy line below the surface and behind your fly, which can cause them to get spooked, brown trout all the more so.  

Now, if you are fishing for brook trout in a small Appalachian stream, you certainly do not want to be using a 10 weight rod.  Trust me, i fished a tiny stream out West for brookies once with a 9 ft 5wt rod and it was a circus - a miserably tangled, tree-hung, and high-hooked debacle, not to mention there was grizzly poo all around me and no phone service for miles!   Even still, I have caught many rainbow trout with an 8 wt rod, but a 4-5 wt is more than capable of handling the  lot and the occasional trophy swirling about the other end of your leader at any given time.  It is often said that a 5 wt. rod is the most versatile size, so it is a great starting point.    

If you are just starting out as a fly angler for trout, you should lean toward a rod in the 3-5wt range.  Anything above a 5 wt may in most circumstances be more suited for steelhead, bass, or something of larger size.  On the other hand, if you are tossing a tarpon pattern in the salt water flats, you will probably want at least a ten weight.  

Next time, I will discuss the fly line, leader, rod balance.  This is important if you plan on being an effective fly caster and want to catch as many fish as possible.  So not only do you need to have the right size rod, but you also need to have it rigged with the corresponding line size AND the appropriate leader for the method of fishing you are undertaking, i.e., fishing dries, nymphs, streamers and so forth.  

Use coupon code STREAMTEAM for streamers in the shop and/or DEEPSOUTHTEAM for shirts and see what happens! ;)

Thanks for reading,

-Daniel

Tight Lines and (Almost) Right Angles

A hefty rainbow sits facing the current in a pool behind a bolder, rising on occasion for a morning morsel.  You've seen him rise once, twice, and now can't wait to get your dry in front of him.  You amble over closer near the pool and cast just to your side of the boulder, allowing your fly to swirl around into the neutral little cranny he's resting in and feeding from.  The cast was beautiful, he rises to the occasion for a satisfying slurp . . . He strikes hard - blowing water all over the place - your heart leaps with excitement as you attempt to pull in the slack and set the hook!   But before you get to set that hook, he's no longer on, and you've lost another good fish.  

And now, you see him once more down there sitting in the same pool, deeper than before - he has returned to base and has spit out your presentation.  You cast at least half a dozen times over, trying to call him back in for a snack on the surface, but he doesn't move.  And finally you throw what you think is the perfect presentation, one that no fish in its right mind could resist.  To do this, you had to inch a little closer to the stream, careful not to cast a shadow.  Then, Much to your dismay, that full bodied, fiery red striped rainbow darts away, taking your hopes of another good fish with him.  

What went wrong?

Tight Lines

After each cast, when you are satisfied with the presentation, pin the line to the cork grip with your index finger, being sure there is no slack in your line in front of your finger.  This way, when there is a forceful strike on the other end, the fish will nearly set the hook on himself, making it easier for you to seal the deal.  

Otherwise, he just yanked about a foot of slack in your line.  And before you can gather yourself to tighten the line and set the hook, he has realized your fly doesn't taste as good as he imagined it would and drops it like it's a hot potato.  

97 degree - (Almost) Right Angles

A trout's vision above is centered on the top of its head like a wide cone shape (97 degrees, that is: almost a 📐).  The vertex is the point of the triangle that sits on top of the trout's head.  Therefore, the deeper he is, the further out he can see.  Though you didn't cast a shadow when you inched closer after the trout retreated deeper into the pool, he saw you coming and darted away.  Be mindful of the trout's cone-shaped field of vision.  

Next time, approach him entirely from behind, because then he will never see you coming and will end up in your net rather than a runaway.  

Tight lines and heavy nets,

Daniel

6 Essential Tips for Casting and Presentation

Lets get the rundown on the cast (now, I do realize it is taught in many forms and fashions by various instructors and veteran anglers, but I believe the technique I discuss below to be among the best).

So you're ready to start slinging that brightly colored string back and forth with your rod, right?  Well it's not exactly that simple.

I will only assume you know how to hold the rod from here. If you are reading this, you more than likely understand the general concept of fly casting (especially after reading the above paragraph).  You rather gently GENTLY NOW! swinging your rod back and forth in front of you and behind you, allowing the line to begin to straighten and present your fly to your target. The following rules describe the techniques you should begin with and should always remember if things start to get sloppy.

1. The Rod/Forearm Continuum. Your rod is one with your forearm and your elbow is planted firmly down toward your waist at your side.  Remember:  It is NOT all in the wrist.  Allow your wrist to bend as much as is natural so you don't look frozen or like a robot, but do not rely on your wrist to cast.  The motion is in your forearm.  You want to pretend that, within reason, your forearm and your fly rod are fused together - your arm is part of the rod and your rod is part of your arm.  They are continuous.
2. The Eleven and One Rule.  You generally do not want to allow your rod (including your forearm) to move past the two o'clock or the ten o'clock position in behind you and in front of you, respectively.  If your line is slapping the water in front of you or behind you and you are only casting a few feet, then you should pay close attention to whether you are following the Eleven and One Rule.
3. Hauling.  As you begin to cast the line back and forth in rhythm behind you and in front of you, with each cast behind, or "back cast," you want to "haul" or pull more line out of the reel so that when you come forward the line will extend further toward your target.  Note: there is something called the double haul in which you pull out line during both your front and back casts, but it is more advanced.  We will stick with the basics for now.
4. Let the Line Straighten Out in the Air.  LOOK OUT FOR THE TREE! When casting, always let the line completely straighten out both in front of you and behind you.  This way it will "lay" out on the water in front of the fish and not wad or curl up, which would create an unnatural and unwelcome sight on the surface to any fish below.  If you let the line straighten IN THE AIR out in front of you and behind you and follow the other rules above, the line should "lay" out in front of you instead of slapping the water and scaring the fish away.
5. Pin the Fly Line to the Grip of the Rod with Your Index Finger.  After you have completed your cast to your target spot, ALWAYS pin the line to the cork grip with the index finger of your dominant hand (or casting hand).  You must KEEP your finger there. If you don't do this, you could miss a fish biting because the slack in your line is not pulled tight. Here's a secret: many anglers do not put this rule into practice, even some more advanced ones.  So you are ahead of the game already.
6. The Mend.  This is one of the most important practices to keep in mind right after casting.  The fish generally will not bite a fly that is drifting at an unnatural pace through the current.  For instance, if there is slack in your fly line drifting through the fastest part of the current and your fly is in the slower part of the current, the fly line will start to pull the fly at an unnaturally fast pace.  This can often be prevented or "mended" by lifting the tip of your rod up and flipping the slack between you and your fly against the current, or upstream. In other words all this does is flip the slack in your line up past the fly so the fly drifts properly and isn't pulled rapidly downstream (with the current) by a wad or loop of slack in your fly line.  You want your fly to drift along at the current's pace as a natural fly or other bug would.  This technique can often be the difference in catching fish and scaring them all away.

I hope you have enjoyed and learned from this post.  For my next post, I plan to provide a glossary of important terms, i.e., the basic parts of the rod, line, leader, backing, tippet, and reel.  Soon after that I will go on to discuss equipment essentials; rod types and rod weight or sizes; different types of flies, their uses and what they represent; and later move onto more advanced fishing strategies and techniques, product reviews, fish species and popular fishing locations.  In the future I will be posting audio, video and image content related to each topic, as well as an update to this post soon.  Thanks for reading.

From the water's edge,

Daniel Tackett

Founder,

Deep South Angler